Writing

The Stoke Is Real

There are things that I will remember until the end of my life, no matter if that is 50 years from today or next week when I forget to look both ways when I cross the street.

  • The smell of neoprene in the hot sun
  • Grape surf wax
  • Cold, soft sand
  • That first trickle of cold water down the back of your neck when you hit the water, wetsuit be damned
  • Pink, shimmering sunrises that dance across the water
  • Plopping down on the board and paddling in
  • Sticking the drop-in on a fast moving wave
  • Sitting on my board past the break (but not for too long because there are waves to catch)
  • Realizing that beach season goes 365 days a year
  • The fast twitch neurons in your brain firing before every popup (and then for like an hour afterwards, even if you are just waiting in line at the grocery store)
  • The endorphin high after a great session
  • Pumping your fist on instinct after catching a good wave
  • Blasting Motley Crue’s “Kickstart my Heart” to get revved up for a winter surf
  • Fighting through a hurricane swell just to see what that’s like
  • Realizing the ocean is so much bigger than you
  • Silent in-water therapy session
  • Flopping on the shore in exhaustion when you just can’t stands no more
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