Writing

The Stoke Is Real

There are things that I will remember until the end of my life, no matter if that is 50 years from today or next week when I forget to look both ways when I cross the street.

    • The smell of neoprene in the hot sun
    • Grape surf wax
    • Cold, soft sand
    • That first trickle of cold water down the back of your neck when you hit the water, wetsuit be damned
    • Pink, shimmering sunrises that dance across the water
    • Plopping down on the board and paddling in
    • Sticking the drop-in on a fast moving wave
    • Sitting on my board past the break (but not for too long because there are waves to catch)
    • Realizing that beach season goes 365 days a year
    • The fast twitch neurons in your brain firing before every popup (and then for like an hour afterwards, even if you are just waiting in line at the grocery store)
    • The endorphin high after a great session
    • Pumping your fist on instinct after catching a good wave
    • Blasting Motley Crue’s “Kickstart my Heart” to get revved up for a winter surf
    • Fighting through a hurricane swell just to see what that’s like
    • Realizing the ocean is so much bigger than you
    • Silent in-water therapy session
    • Flopping on the shore in exhaustion when you just can’t stands no more

 

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